مطالعه پارچه ترمه رضا ترکی یزد

نوع مقاله : مقاله پژوهشی

نویسنده

چکیده
مطالعه در خصوص آثار تاریخی_فرهنگی که به دلایل متعدد از جمله عدم اطلاعات کافی درباره آن‌ها بعضا مورد کم توجهی قرار گرفتند، بسیار حائز اهمیت است. یکی از نمودهای آثار تاریخی_فرهنگی، هنر‌های سنتی هستند. ترمه، یکی از انواع هنرهای سنتی است که نام آن یادآور شهر تاریخی یزد است. ترمه‌بافی در یزد از گذشته به صورت دست‌بافت اجرا می‌شده اما رفته رفته این هنر کمرنگ شده و امروزه ترمه‌های ماشینی جایگزین آن‌ها شده‌اند. لذا پرداختن به ترمه‌های دست‌بافت به یادگار مانده از دوران پیشین می-تواند یادآور جزئیات این هنر روبه فراموشی باشد تا شاید مقدمه‌ای برای احیای آن فراهم شود. از این رو، یک اثر پارچه‌ای از نوع ترمه تاریخی از مجموعه شخصی مرحومه ایران استکی واقع در شهرکرد انتخاب و تحقیق در باب آن به انجام رسید. این مطالعه با هدف تعیین قدمت، نوع کاربری و همچنین شناسایی نقوش به کار رفته در آن به سه پرسش پاسخ داده شد؛ پارچه ترمه مورد مطالعه مربوط به چه دوره‌ای است؟ نوع کاربری اثر مورد مطالعه چیست؟ و نقوش به کار رفته در اثر مورد مطالعه کدام است؟ روش به کار رفته در پژوهش حاضر توصیفی_تحلیلی بوده که با استفاده از مطالعات کتابخانه‌ای (کتاب، مقاله و پایان‌نامه‌های مرتبط با موضوع) و میدانی (مصاحبه، مکاتبه با اساتید صاحب نظر در این زمینه و بازدید از کارگاه‌های سنتی بافت ترمه) به جمعآوری اطلاعات مورد نظر پرداخته شد. مطالعات صورت گرفته نشان می‌دهد این اثر یکی از نمونه‌های پارچه ترمه رضاترکی دستبافت بوده که متاسفانه تا به امروز در متون کمی به این نوع خاص از ترمه و ویژگی های منحصر بفرد آن اشاره شده است. این نوع ترمه در اوایل قرن سیزدهم، در جهت پیشرفت و بازدهی بیشتر توسط شخصی به نام "رضا ترک" انجام شد. او بافت با انگشت که علاوه بر تولید اندک برای بافنده زحمت و خستگی زیادی داشت را منسوخ کرد و بافت ترمه را با ماکو عملی گردانید و از ابزار و وسایل بیشتری استفاده نمود. ترمه بافته شده به این روش نیز به ترمه "رضا ترکی" معروف شد. اثر مورد مطالعه نیز یک پارچه ترمه رضاترکی یزد، با کاربری بقچه حمام بوده است. در بافت پارچه مورد مطالعه نقوش متنوعی وجود دارد که به صورت کلی می‌توان به نقوش به کار رفته در قسمت مرکزی اثر مذکور بته جقه، سرو و نقش پرنده بوده و در حاشیه دارای قاب‌بندی با طرح‌های هندسی اشاره کرد. رنگ‌های به کار رفته در اثر شامل سه رنگ سورمه‌ای، صورتی روشن و سفید است. همچنین قدمت اثر مورد مطالعه با استفاده از بررسی یک نمونه ترمه رضاترکی با قدمت از پیش تعیین شده، در کنار مطالعات صورت گرفته نسبت به ویژگی پارچه‌های دوران قاجار و پهلوی به اواخر دوره قاجار یا اوایل دوره پهلوی نسبت داده می‌شود.

کلیدواژه‌ها

موضوعات

عنوان مقاله English

A study of cashmere fabric by Reza Turki of Yazd

چکیده English

It is very important to study about cultural-historical works that were sometimes neglected due to several reasons, including the lack of sufficient information about them. One of the manifestations of cultural-historical works are traditional arts. cashmere is one of the types of traditional arts whose name is reminiscent of the historical city of Yazd. Cashmere weaving in Yazd has been done by hand since the past, but gradually this art has faded and today machine cashmeres have replaced them. Therefore, dealing with the hand-woven cashmeres left over from the past can remind the details of this forgotten art, so that maybe an introduction to its revival can be provided. Therefore, a fabric work of historical cashmere type was selected from the personal collection of the late Iran Staki, located in Shahrekord, and research was carried out. This study aimed to determine the age, the type of use and also to identify the motifs used in it, three questions were answered; What period does the studied cashmere cloth belong to? What is the type of use of the studied work? And which motifs are used in the studied work? The method used in this research is descriptive-analytical, which is based on library studies (books, articles and theses related to the subject) and field studies (interviews, correspondence with expert professors in this field and visits to workshops Traditional cashmere texture) was collected to collect the desired information. The studies conducted show that this work is one of the examples of handwoven Reza Turki cashmere fabric, which unfortunately has been mentioned in few texts about this special type of cashmere and its unique features. This type of cashmere was made in the early 13th century, in the direction of more progress and efficiency, by a person named "Reza Turk". He obsoleted finger weaving, which in addition to producing a small amount of labor and fatigue for the weaver, and implemented cashmere weaving with mako and used more tools and devices. Cashew woven in this way also became known as "Reza Turki" cashew. The work under study was a cashmere cloth of Reza Turki, Yazd, with the use of bathroom rugs. In the texture of the studied fabric, there are various motifs, which in general can be mentioned in the motifs used in the central part of the above-mentioned work, such as Bete Jakeh,, cedar, and bird pattern, and the border has a frame with geometric designs. The colors used in the work include three colors: dark red, light pink and white. Also, the age of the studied work is attributed to the end of the Qajar period or the beginning of the Pahlavi period by examining a sample of Reza Turki cashmere with a predetermined age, along with the studies conducted regarding the characteristics of the fabrics of the Qajar and Pahlavi periods.



It is very important to study about cultural-historical works that were sometimes neglected due to several reasons, including the lack of sufficient information about them. One of the manifestations of cultural-historical works are traditional arts. cashmere is one of the types of traditional arts whose name is reminiscent of the historical city of Yazd. Cashmere weaving in Yazd has been done by hand since the past, but gradually this art has faded and today machine cashmeres have replaced them. Therefore, dealing with the hand-woven cashmeres left over from the past can remind the details of this forgotten art, so that maybe an introduction to its revival can be provided. Therefore, a fabric work of historical cashmere type was selected from the personal collection of the late Iran Staki, located in Shahrekord, and research was carried out. This study aimed to determine the age, the type of use and also to identify the motifs used in it, three questions were answered; What period does the studied cashmere cloth belong to? What is the type of use of the studied work? And which motifs are used in the studied work? The method used in this research is descriptive-analytical, which is based on library studies (books, articles and theses related to the subject) and field studies (interviews, correspondence with expert professors in this field and visits to workshops Traditional cashmere texture) was collected to collect the desired information. The studies conducted show that this work is one of the examples of handwoven Reza Turki cashmere fabric, which unfortunately has been mentioned in few texts about this special type of cashmere and its unique features. This type of cashmere was made in the early 13th century, in the direction of more progress and efficiency, by a person named "Reza Turk". He obsoleted finger weaving, which in addition to producing a small amount of labor and fatigue for the weaver, and implemented cashmere weaving with mako and used more tools and devices. Cashew woven in this way also became known as "Reza Turki" cashew. The work under study was a cashmere cloth of Reza Turki, Yazd, with the use of bathroom rugs. In the texture of the studied fabric, there are various motifs, which in general can be mentioned in the motifs used in the central part of the above-mentioned work, such as Bete Jakeh,, cedar, and bird pattern, and the border has a frame with geometric designs. The colors used in the work include three colors: dark red, light pink and white. Also, the age of the studied work is attributed to the end of the Qajar period or the beginning of the Pahlavi period by examining a sample of Reza Turki cashmere with a predetermined age, along with the studies conducted regarding the characteristics of the fabrics of the Qajar and Pahlavi periods.

It is very important to study about cultural-historical works that were sometimes neglected due to several reasons, including the lack of sufficient information about them. One of the manifestations of cultural-historical works are traditional arts. cashmere is one of the types of traditional arts whose name is reminiscent of the historical city of Yazd. Cashmere weaving in Yazd has been done by hand since the past, but gradually this art has faded and today machine cashmeres have replaced them. Therefore, dealing with the hand-woven cashmeres left over from the past can remind the details of this forgotten art, so that maybe an introduction to its revival can be provided. Therefore, a fabric work of historical cashmere type was selected from the personal collection of the late Iran Staki, located in Shahrekord, and research was carried out. This study aimed to determine the age, the type of use and also to identify the motifs used in it, three questions were answered; What period does the studied cashmere cloth belong to? What is the type of use of the studied work? And which motifs are used in the studied work? The method used in this research is descriptive-analytical, which is based on library studies (books, articles and theses related to the subject) and field studies (interviews, correspondence with expert professors in this field and visits to workshops Traditional cashmere texture) was collected to collect the desired information. The studies conducted show that this work is one of the examples of handwoven Reza Turki cashmere fabric,

کلیدواژه‌ها English

  • Textile
  • Terma
  • Reza Torni
  • Qajar
  • Pahlavi