روش‌شناسی بررسی فنی منسوجات تاریخی، برآمدی از «حفاظت مطالعاتی»

نوع مقاله : مقاله پژوهشی

نویسنده

ولی عصر

چکیده
منسوجات در دسته‌بندی اموال فرهنگی، سهم قابل توجهی را به خود اختصاص داده اند و از آنجا که در گروه مواد آلی قرار می گیرند، آسیب پذیری و روند فرسایشی مضاعفی در مقایسه با مواد غیرآلی دارند. بر این اساس منسوجات تاریخی، به آن دست منسوجاتی اطلاق می شود که در دوران تاریخی (بعد از میلاد مسیح AD) تولید شده اند و غالباً زینت بخش موزه ها و مجموعه ها هستند و یا به صورت انبوه در مخازن موزه ها نگهداری می شوند. غالب این دست منسوجات شامل انواع منسوجات کاربردی، تزئیناتی – آئینی و انواع منسوجات بکار رفته در البسه تاریخی هستند. منسوجات تاریخی با توجه به روند پیشرفت صنعت نساجی در طول تاریخ، از تنوع بسیاری در روش (تکنیک) تولید برخوردارند. در این راستا، بررسی‌های تخصصی فنی در روش تولید منسوجات در طول تاریخ، نیازمند روش‌شناسی بررسی فنی برآمده از حفاظت مطالعاتی می‌باشد که به عنوان اولین اقدام حفاظتی در راستای شناخت آسیب‌های وارده به آنها و اتخاذ بهترین روش حفاظتی یا مرمتی، حفاظتگر را رهنمون می‌سازد و همچنین اطلاعات تاریخی مستندی جهت شناخت صنعت نساجی، شرایط اقلیمی، باورها، آداب و رسوم و مبادلات فرهنگی در دوره خاص تاریخی را مشخص می‌نماید؛ به گونه‌ایی که می-تواند معرف فرهنگ و میراث نساجی آن دوره باشد. روش‌های بررسی فنی منسوجات تاریخی شامل انواع روش‌های شناسایی جنس الیاف بکار رفته، انواع تاب نخ در راستای نحوۀ ریسندگی الیاف، شناسایی رنگدانۀ الیاف رنگرزی شده، شناسایی نوع تثبیت کننده رنگدانه در الیاف، انواع روش‌های بافت الیاف که منجر به تولید منسوج می‌شوند، شناسایی نوع الیاف فلزی بکار رفته در بافت یا تزئینات الیاف است؛ بررسی طرح‌های بکار رفته در منسوج بافته شده که در دسته‌بندی طرح‌ها، چه به صورت طرح در بافت و چه به صورت چاپ یا تزئینات الحاقی است؛ بررسی انواع تزئینات به عنوان الحاقات که بخشی از اثر (منسوج یا بافته) می‌باشند و در نهایت تعیین نوع کاربری منسوج، ازجمله مواردی است که در روش‌شناسی بررسی فنی منسوجات تاریخی در راستای حفاظت مطالعاتی و پی بردن به ریشه‌های فرهنگی صنعت نساجی دوره مورد بررسی بکار می‌روند. علاوه بر موارد مذکور، روش‌شناسی بررسی فنی این آثار، در بخش مستندنگاری که در حیطه حفاظت اطلاعاتی معرفی می‌شود، منسوجات را به صورت مستندنگاری جامع از انواع طرح‌ها و نقوش که ریشه نمادین در روند تاریخ اجتماعی هنر دارند تبیین می‌نماید و به دنبال آن کمبودها یا فقدان بخشی از اثر را جهت ارزش-گذاری و احترام به ارزش‌های زیباشناسانۀ منسوج، حتی در مستندنگاری الحاقات تزئینی نیز مشخص می‌سازد .بر این اساس می‌توان بر مبنای آن موزون‌سازی طرح، بافت، رنگ و تزئینات منسوج را با شناخت جامع بررسی فنی منسوجات به صورت دیجیتال، در راستای حفاظت اطلاعاتی (مستندنگاری جامع)، معرفی و حفاظت پایدار از فرهنگ و میراث نساجی را به عنوان نمونه‌ایی از آن اعمال نمود.

کلیدواژه‌ها

موضوعات

عنوان مقاله English

Technical Study of Historical Textiles, Raised from Studies Conservation

نویسنده English

Haleh Helali Esfahani
ولی عصر
چکیده English

In the past, textiles played a very important role in many fields; including social, economic, production technology and aesthetic fields. Understanding the origins of textiles as a part of the cultural assets of any society and its role in ancient cultures is not only important for all those interested in the past, but also as a chain link from the past to the present. Textiles with various functions ranging from functional to symbolic and ritual origin, all of them have continued until now and what remains as textile remnants with various functions for today's modern researchers, is like a road map to understand the textile culture in the past, which with today's relevant and specialized studies in the field of textiles, has turned the studies of this field into a kind of interdisciplinary science, in line with which, the study of archeology, conservation and restoration, Art history and social history includes art, ethnology and symbol Identification.
The textiles that have reached us today in a preserved form have a conservation-exhibition function in the context of repositories and museums, and what is mostly defined in the scope of the duties of a conservator; the topics related to the registered protection of such properties in the repositories and their museum protection, which the conservator, by starting specialized studies and investigations, brings their study protection to the fore, is based on interdisciplinary studies to The form of specialized study conservation of textiles is considered to include their technical and damage studies in order to adopt the type of their conservation; Because conservation studies resulting from the expertise of each conservator in his specialized field of activity preserves the range of conservation communication between the museum and the repository and the audience, and by presenting such methodical studies, he can preserve his conservation mission as a cultural activist. By publishing each of the specialized studies on each piece of fabric preserved in the museum, in addition to the property certificate, it should contain a documentary report of its technical studies under the informational conservation, which, while valuing the true origin of the textile, will provide extensive study information to other textile studies experts. The necessity of technical studies of textiles is a cultural language that calls the audience to identify its true identity from the heart of the repositories and collections to the showcases of the museums. Because the purpose of the technical examination of textiles, which includes the history and production method, is a part of conservation studies that falls under the set of conservation science approach. All this can be repeated in the shadow of applied research, with all kinds of exploratory-explanatory methods, along with descriptive-analytical considerations, the analysis of the data obtained from the examination of the technical methods of historical textiles. Its comprehensiveness is in the field of related expertise and according to the requirements of modern science; It seems that the technical studies of textiles in a methodical way at first have the role of protecting them both in the form of repositories and in the form of museum displays, and it is believed that the textile culture of each period can be traced through the technical examination of textiles. The historical and ultimately the textile heritage of that period was achieved and reaching such assumptions with the operational strategy of methodical measures of technical examination of textiles will ultimately help in their sustainable conservation of them. The methodology of technical investigations of historical textiles includes the results of applicability in similar cases of studies that show the unification of the approach of index values in the technical investigation of historical textiles based on textile science and the intrinsic properties of fibers that are universal in origin. This importance with reproducibility in the field of study protection introduces the value of methodical studies related to protection in the direction of their sustainable protection.
The textiles that have reached us today in a protected form have a protective-exhibitive function in the context of repositories and museums, and what is mostly defined in the scope of the duties of a conservator, are the issues related to the registered protection of such properties in repositories and It is their museum protection that the conservator brings their study protection to the fore by starting specialized studies and investigations, and based on interdisciplinary studies in the form of specialized study protection of textiles, it is considered that their technical and damage studies to adopt the type of their protection; Because conservation studies resulting from the expertise of each conservator in his specialized field of activity preserves the range of conservation communication between the museum and the repository and the audience, and by presenting such methodical studies, he can preserve his conservation mission as a cultural activist. By publishing each of the specialized studies on each piece of fabric protected in the museum, in addition to the property certificate, it contains a documentary report of technical studies that is under the shadow of its information protection, while valuing the true nature of the textile, extensive study information is available. Other specialists in textile studies. The necessity of technical studies of textiles is a cultural language that calls the audience to identify its true identity from the heart of the reservoirs and collections to the showcases of the museums. Because the purpose of the technical examination of textiles, which includes the history and production method, is a part of conservation studies that falls under the set of conservation science approach. It seems that the technical studies of textiles in a methodical way at first have the role of protecting them both in the form of reservoirs and in the form of museum displays, and it is believed that the textile culture of each period can be traced through the technical examination of textiles. The historical and ultimately the textile heritage of that period was achieved and reaching such assumptions with the operational strategy of methodical measures of technical examination of textiles will ultimately help in their sustainable conservation. Based on this, expressing dissatisfaction, it should be announced that in this regard, research studies that have applicability, taking into account the comprehensiveness of reviews regarding other similar works, in a specialized way in research records related to this type of historical textiles, such as maps We don't have the way, in the hands of the conservator, to pave the path of studies correctly and methodically for him and cause the creativity of the conservator to add other study interventions. Studies related to the protection of works from any category of cultural property are under the shadow of protection studies that include all-round protection studies of objects from the moment the conservator encounters them to establishing a relationship with the audience of the work.

کلیدواژه‌ها English

  • Textiles
  • Culture
  • Methodology
  • Technical Studies
  • Conservation